Know-How > Hard Wax Finish
Hardwax oil finish is a unique wood finish that combines oils, resins and waxes to protect and enhance wood surfaces. The oils and dissolved resins penetrate the wood to nourish and strengthen it, while the wax component forms a durable, water-resistant surface. Hardwax oil leaves a natural, matte to satin finish that highlights the wood grain without creating a plastic-like film. Craftsmen find it easy to repair, as scratches can be spot-treated without refinishing the entire surface. It's a versatile finish that can be used on floors, furniture, countertops — almost any wood surface. It's eco-friendly ingredients and low-VOC content often make it safer and healthier choice than other common finishes.
Throughout this webpage we list links to the materials and hardwax oils we used in our studies, These will take you to the product on Amazon, where we earn a small commision if you buy through that link. There is no extra cost to you, and we very much appreciate your support.
Unlike many finishes such as polyurethane or lacquer, the term "hardwax oil" or "hardwax finish" does not have a strict, universally agreed-upon definition. Instead, every major brand of hardwax oil defines itself according to its own unique formula. These often contain proprietary, secret ingredients that give their product its signature performance. But if you examine the known components across these different blends, a common pattern emerges. At its core, hardwax oil is a combination of wax suspended in a curing oil or resin, typically with a solvent added to improve application and penetration.
Some of the most popular brands of hardwax oils.
Though the exact ratios and additives vary, this fundamental mixture of oils and waxes is what defines the mix as a hardwax finish — providing both deep nourishment and durable, natural-looking surface protection.
While these finishes share a consistant theme of "wax plus oil," there are two types of these hardwax finishes on the market.
These are ready-to-use straight from the can. They cure through exposure to air (oxidation) and typically take longer to fully harden.
Different from a true catalyzing finish, these include the finish (Part A) and an optional hardener (Part B) that's mixed in before application. TThis accelerates curing, improves durability, and increases chemical resistance.
It should be noted that some of these two part finishes, like Rubio and General Hardwax Oil, can be used without their hardeners They just take longer to cure.
When oils and waxes are mixed, they form a temporary solution. Because waxes have a larger molecular size, they don’t penetrate as deeply as oils. During application, the components naturally separate: the oils soak in, while the waxes remain near the surface. This results in three distinct layers of protection with a single application.
Natural oils (like linseed or tung) penetrate into the wood fibers. They polymerize through oxidation, hardening within the pores and cell cavities. This provides internal protection against moisture and wear.
As the oil soaks deeper into the wood, wax begins to separate, due to differences in solubility and molecular structure. Some wax remains near the surface and within upper grain layers. This creates a semi-penetrating barrier, improving water repellency and adhesion between the inner and outer layers.
Natural waxes (e.g. carnauba, beeswax) have high molecular weight, so they do not penetrate deeply. They form a thin, breathable surface film that resists water, dirt, and light abrasion. This layer provides the distinct matte-sheen and soft-touch feel associated with hardwax finishes.
Because hardwax finishes don’t create a film like other finishes, they also don’t produce a reflective sheen on their own. The sheen you get depends to a large extent on how finely you sand the surface of your project.
Most woodworkers stop sanding around 220 grit, since going higher risks burnishing the surface and packing the wood pores with fine dust, which can reduce how well the finish bonds and penetrates.This logic holds true for most hardwax oils. However, in our experience, sanding up to 600 grit gave the most attractive results — with a subtle sheen and a pleasantly smooth feel. Sanding beyond 600 grit produced diminishing returns cosmetically and was not worth the extra effort.
To help with penetration at higher grits, you can “pop the grain” by wiping the wood with a damp cloth, letting it dry completely, and then lightly sanding again with your final grit. You should also wipe the surface with a tack rag and/or blow it with an air gun to remove all the stray dust. This helps raise and remove fine fibers, cleans out some of the impacted sawdust from the pores, and reduces the tendency of the grain to swell when the finish is applied. We also found that pieces we water-popped had a slightly more pronounced sheen, with a cleaner, more even look overall.
One of the biggest advantages of hardwax finishes is how easy they are to apply. They’re very forgiving, making them an excellent choice for beginners and professionals alike. With just a few simple steps, you can achieve a durable, natural-looking finish that’s hard to mess up. Note: If any of the following instructions differ from the manufacturer’s, go with the manufacturer. (But we do encourage you to experiment.)
When comparing the hardwax finish brands, we found very little difference. The Two-Part (Accelerated) Hardwax Oils cured the faster, but they were also the hardest to apply.
We've prepared a PDF, "Comparing Hardwax Finishes" that is FREE to view and or download. This PDF booklet includes high-definition photos of all the test boards we prepared which will make it easier to see the differences between finishes. Based on our tests, we evaluated these finishes for ease or application, sheen and reflectivity, how pleasant the cured finish was to the touch, and how it changed or "warmed" the wood color. We also included a cost comparison between the brands we tested and other popular finishes. Unfortunately, we haven't yet had time to test for durability or other long-term factors, and we could not find reliable information other than the manufacturers' claims. We will amend this as we gain more experience and more info becomes available.
Of the finishes we tested, our favorite was Tried & True. That was based on appearance, cost, and the other factors we listed. But as we said, the results of these tests were very close. Any difference we found might have been due to natural variations in the wood grain in our test boards as well as the different brands. They all performed well enough to earn the asking price.
Before diving into the topic of hardwax oils we dabbled in the arts of making "Board Butter". Rather than using the classic mineral oil / beeswax combo we changed it up a bit by using raw linseed oil, beeswax, & carnauba wax. What we ended up with was wax suspended in a curing oil... sounds familliar right? While our recipe for board butter can be classified as a hardwax oil it's a bit heavy on the wax side. We wanted to make something that was more similar to the big brand hardwax finishes on the market. So Nick and I split our efforts and created two recipes. Nick focused on durability while I focused on a less toxic blend. (Both of these are one-part hardwax finishes.)
* Nick's blend on the left, Travis's blend on the right.
In our recipes, we both found that using 10–20% wax, 10–20% solvent, and 60–70% oil created a finish with a smooth, workable viscosity that was easy to apply and left behind a pleasant wax coating.
This blend uses boiled linseed oil with a touch of spar urethane to create a deep-penetrating, hard-curing base with the optical properties to enhace the wood grain. Beeswax is added for it's ductility, ease of application, and moisture resistance; carnauba for it's durability and highly reflective finish (after buffing). For the solvent, Nick chose mineral spirits — it’s readily available, affordable, and effective at keeping the waxes suspended in the oil.
if you you want the printable labels we use on our cans click HERE for a free download.
Heating solvents — and oils that already contain solvents
— can raise them past their "flash point," the temperature
at which they begin to evaporate and release combustible
VOCs (volatile organic
compounds) into the surrounding air.
Always mix these recipes in a well-ventilated
area and use appropriate protective
equipment such as gloves, eye protection, and a
respirator as needed.
Never use an open flame as a heat source.
Not only can this ignite the vapors, the mixture itself is
flammable.
Instead, use an electric hot plate and a double
boiler or other
indirect heating method, and monitor the temperature
carefully — aim for no more than 175°F, just enough to
melt the wax.
Mix the ingredients in a double boiler on an electric hot plate. The boiler should keep the temperature fairly low. You only need to get the mix warm enough to melt the beeswax and carnauba — about 165F or 74C. Bringing it up to 175F (80C) will speed up the process. Keep in mind that at this temperature you are heating some ingredients past their flash point. It's a good idea to keep a fire extinguisher handy just in case. At the very least, have a handy way to smother the flames should you need to.
Let the mixture cool, stirring occasionally. Once it reaches room temperature, put it in an airtight can (if it's not in one already) and install or tighten the lid. Like any other finish, you want this mix to have as little contact with the air as possible; otherwise the solvents will evaporate and the oils will begin to polymerize (cure).
When you're ready to use this finish, it can be applied like any other one-part hardwax oil, as we described in the How to Apply section. This mixture will take around two weeks to fully cure. But like all respectible hardwax oil finishes, it can be handled after buffing. Note: Like most finishes, this can be conbsidered food-contact safe after curing; but I hestitate to say that when boiled linseed oil is involved. This stuff often has heavy metal driers that are best kept away from your mouth, especially if you're under twelve years old. If you need a safer finish, go onto the next section.
This is a less toxic blend containing no heavy metal driers. It's primarily raw tung oil with a splash of raw linseed oil. I added beeswax and carnauba wax for the same qualities cited in Nick's recipe. The oils and waxes are suspended in highly concentrated d-limonene, which provides a pleasant citrus scent that surprisingly overpowers the odor of the raw oils. And I added a few milliliters of vitamin E oil to extend the shelf life of the raw ingredients. In my batch, I used the more affordable material brands on the market, which are not labeled as food safe. However, they will be food-contact safe when cured. If you need to make them fully food safe, select food-grade materials — they are expensive, but they are available online.
if you you want the printable labels we use on our cans click HERE for a free download.
If you wish, you can substitute "white" or Refined Beeswax for the more common variety. Refined beeswax has a more uniforn color and does not "yellow" the wood to which it's applied (as much). It also has less scent and fewer impurities.
While this blend uses a less toxic solvent (d-limonene),
it still contains oils and waxes that can release VOCs
when heated.
Always mix and heat the recipe in a
well-ventilated area, and use
appropriate protective gear such as
gloves, eye protection, and a respirator if needed.
Never use an open flame as a heat
source — d-limonene is flammable, you're heating it well
past its flash point (118F or 48C) and its vapors can
ignite.
Use a double boiler or another indirect
heat method, and monitor the temperature closely.
Heat only until the waxes melt, around 170–175°F
(77–80°C), then remove from heat and let it
cool.
As with Nick's recipe, mix the ingredients in a double boiler on an electric hot plate. Add the raw tung oil, raw linseed oil, carnauba, and beeswax to your double boiler and heat to 165–175°F (74–80°C) until the wax melts and fully combines with the oils. Stir for a few minutes, then turn off the heat and allow the mixture to slowly cool in the double boiler.
Once the mixture cools to around 145°F (63°C), add the vitamin E oil — any hotter and the heat may degrade it, reducing its effectiveness. When it reaches 140°F (60°C), add the d-limonene. For best results, continue stirring as the mixture cools to room temperature. Note: By adding the d-Limonene at a lower temperature, less of it evaporates.
You may find that the finish thickens after it has cooled for a day. In my experience, simply giving it a good stir brings it back to a pudding-like consistency — and it usually doesn’t thicken again. This blend is quite sensitive — even small variables can affect its consistency.
You can apply the finish just like the other hardwax oils shown in the How to Apply section. Since this mixture uses raw oils, it can take up to a month to fully cure. And like the other blends, it can be safely handled once it has been buffed.
D-limonene behaves a bit differently than mineral spirits — it doesn't dissolve waxes quite as effectively. To counter this, I found it’s very important to stir the mixture continuously as it cools. Let it cool slowly — rapid cooling can cause the ingredients to separate.
Depending on the size of the batch, cooling can take a while. D-limonene may have some of the most pleasant-smelling fumes you’ll ever encounter, but don’t be fooled — it’s still toxic. Rather than standing over the pot inhaling the fumes, I recommend using an automatic stirrer to make the process safer and easier.
This auto stirrer did a fantastic job at blending the ingredients as the mixture heated and cooled, saving us from fumes, helping the wax melt, and ensuring a smooth, even consistency. If this interests you, this affliate link will take you to the auto stirrer we used.
When making your own hardwax finish, even the smallest changes in your recipe, cooking, or mixing process can affect the final outcome. Some variables include:
The more wax you use, the thicker your blend will be once it cools. The more solvent you use, the thinner and more spreadable it becomes. Getting the ratio just right determines how easy the finish is to apply. If you don’t mind spending extra time working the finish across your project, you might even try using no solvent for a truly food-safe blend.
Travis's blend with an extra 0.5 oz of d-limonene and using the auto stirrer through the entire mixing process.
If you decide to add all the ingredients at once — as in Nick's recipe — you may end up with a smoother, more unified blend. However, it’s worth considering how much solvent may have evaporated by the time the mixture cools. I found that adding the solvent at 140°F (60°C), while the mixture was still liquid, gave similar results while reducing the time the solvent was exposed to higher temperatures near its flash point.
Nick used mineral spirits in his blend and did very little stirring. He also used more wax than I did in my blend, yet his finish ended up being more fluid. When we replaced the mineral spirits in Nick’s blend with d-limonene, it went from a runny, creamer-like consistency to something closer to Vaseline. According to safety data sheets, d-limonene is less harmful to both peole and the environment — it’s easy to understand why so many products use this citrus-derived solvent. But it does require more effort to work with.
Nick's blend using d-limonene with minimal stirring.
We’ve kept our finishes fairly simple, especially when you consider all the materials available on the market. If you’re like us, you might find yourself losing sleep thinking about all the potential ingredients and processes you could experiment with to create your own unique blend.
What if I add a little tree resin, like pine or copal?
Would using boiled linseed oil without heavy driers help
speed up the cure time? What could I add for UV
protection?
The possibilities are endless, and we encourage you to
do your own research and experimentation — while
practicing proper safety.
If you come up with something you really like, please
share
your recipe with us!
Travis's blend with 1 gram of Zinc Oxide Powder (Affiliate link) to add some uv protection.
These hardwax oils are great for folks who are new to woodworking, and are safer health-wise and environment-wise than many traditional finishes. They contain fewer solvents, cover more surface area per ounce, and reduce VOCs in your workspace. The added wax offers solid water and heat resistance while leaving behind a sleek surface with a wonderful feel. Considering the less toxic blends like Odie’s, Bee Nooba, and Tried & True, hardwax oils may be among the most durable finishes suitable for kitchens or projects for children and pets. They’re easy to reapply, making touch-ups a breeze, and the soft matte finish is especially appealing in today’s age of plastic-looking surfaces.
Averaging around $4.00 per ounce, the price of name-brand finishes can seem a bit absurd — unless those proprietary formulas include vacuum-boiled shark fins, it’s hard to justify. That said, I can’t be too critical — I have no idea how Odie’s Oil achieves such a honey-like consistency while claiming to contain no solvents. Price aside, I worry that the Transitional Layer (Oil-Wax Interface) might make it difficult to stain your project later. (We didn’t test this, but viewers have reported having this experience). Also, since hardwax oils don’t produce a protective film, any scratches or dents go into the wood itself. And if you're after a glossy finish, hardwax oils may disappoint — they don’t build shine easily, and you can’t topcoat them with other finishes due to the wax.
At the end of this adventure, Nick and I both found hardwax oils to be less attractive than other options. Nick will stick with Minwax Tung Oil followed by a coat or two of Rudy’s formula (eight parts tung oil finish to one part spar varnish) as his go-to, and I’ll continue using Minwax Wipe-On Poly. Neither of us plans to buy more of the pricey hardwax finishes anytime soon — especially after spending nearly US$200 for very small quatities of name-brand hardwaxes to test in our video. But for kitchen utensils, toys, and other food-contact or kid-safe projects, hardwax oil may very well become our new favorite. We’re both excited to see how our own blends holds up over time — and we'll report the results here sometime down the road.
If you enjoyed the article and want to ensure we make more on other topics, you can support us by purchasing Nick's books and project plans at the Workshop Companion Shopify Store. And — as always — thank you for your kind attention.
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